Based in Mātauranga Māori, the project will bring together textile researchers, Māori practitioners, and scientists to advance knowledge of native plant dyes and fibres. With science, the research will complement the values of iwi partners Ngāti Tukorehe (Kuku, Horowhenua), ensuring that research outputs will benefit iwi and their whenua economically, environmentally, and socially. Many synthetic textile dyes are toxic and take many years to breakdown after disposal, Māori weavers often use synthetic dyes that are toxic, displacing sustainable customary preparation and colouring techniques. Whereas traditional customary plant dyes, and new generation substantive dyes offer sustainable alternatives, safer to use and less toxic to the people and their environment. These offer the opportunity to develop safer sustainable natural dyes for muka (harakeke fibre) to advance fibre technology and mātauranga Māori. In previous research, the team has established laboratory-scale methods to acquire solvent-free and effective flavonoid dyes for muka colouration from local native plant-based materials (harakeke, karamu, mānuka, mātipo, kānuka). This project will advance the research by testing methods on by-products from industry (e.g., mānuka brush from Essential Oil industry) through wānanga with Iwi weavers. The long-term aim of the project is to achieve commercial production of natural dyes for muka, offering Māori weavers an alternative to synthetic dye products.
Research Lead(s) and Team
Lead: Angela Kilford (Ngāti Porou, Ngāti Kahungunu ki Wairoa, Te Whānau A Kai) (MU), with Sonya Withers (Sama’i, Falelatai, Sāmoa) (MU), Tanya Ruka (Ngati Pakau, Ngapuhi) (VUW), Briar Moffat (Ngāti Raukawa, Ngāti Tukorehe) (Te Whare Kotare), William Xu (MU), Ally Ataria (Ngāti Raukawa) (MU), Julia Hope, Huhana Smith (Ngāti Tukorehe, Ngāti Raukawa) (MU) & Faith Kane (MU).